Kalamkari- The Ancient Art of Painting with Natural Dyes

The word Kalamkari literally means work done with a pen. 'Kalam' is the Persian word for pen and 'Kari' in Urdu means craftsmanship involved. The origin of this term can be traced back to the early period of interaction between Persian and Indian traders. Created without the use of any chemicals and machinery, Kalamkari handcraft is entirely an art done using natural dyes and salt treatments including a total of twenty-three elaborate steps of bleaching, painting, cleaning and more.

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This art form is originally being practiced in small towns of Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam in Andhra Pradesh, passed down from generation to generation as a household occupation.

Both of the places have their own distinctive style of paintings. While Machilipatnam style resorts strictly to hand-carved wooden blocks for printing without the actual use of drawing with a 'Kalam'. This art form is more Persian in nature due to its proximity to the Mughal Sultanate, Machilipatanam being a major port in those times. Iran became a central importer of this textile art form and several centres were opened throughout to meet the demand. Traditional block prints largely use Persian motifs like intricate patterns of leaves and flowers. A very important art form here is Tree of Life.

Srikalahasti or temple-style Kalamkari has more of a religious inclination and thrives on mythological themes, such as pictorial representations of stories from Mahabharata, Ramayana and Puranas. The common man learnt of Gods and Goddesses and their mythical character through these paintings. Groups of musicians, singers and painters moved from village to village narrating the great stories of Hindu mythology.

Today's Kalamkari art has progressively been much more influenced by the tastes and interests of new generation. From major fashion labels to being specially popular and in demand in textile exhibitions in the European market, this ancient art form has come a long way, making rounds in today's times where the world is going back to organic again.